Men's Late 15th Century Kit Guide

By Martyn Smith  (Copyright 2005)

MENS BASIC KIT

1. HAT

Note: Various styles of hat were worn during our period.  Contrary to re-enactor’s myth men didn’t have a hat permanently welded to their head (there are many illustrations showing men working bare headed).  Miniature from Girart de Roussillon, French 1448 cod. 2549 fol. 164r can be seen at National Bibliothek Vienna showing masons working on a church bare -headed, and, wearing hats.  It is however  safe to assume  that men of all classes  wore hats most of the time and regarded their hat as an essential part of their daily dress. Coifs do not seem to have been worn as in earlier periods, and should be avoided unless specific to a certain scenario (ie. Court of the King’s Bench).  A manuscript in the British Library shows the kings bench wearing coifs. All beneath them are bare headed, circa 1450. An important point to consider when choosing; when is appropriate to wear your hat is “Do I have a modern hair cut?” If the answer is yes, then keep your hat on your head!  Please also make sure that your hat is compatible with the status portrayed. If you have an authentic hairstyle, your hat should still be close at hand.

2. UNDERWEAR

(a) Shirt - Your shirt should be undyed linen without drawstring to either neck and/or wrists. 

(b) Braies - Should ideally be undyed linen.

Underwear is seldom shown clearly on manuscripts. The most complete guide is to be found on the Companie of St. Georges web site -  though I have not checked their references. Draw string shirts are 16/17th Century

3. DOUBLET

A doublet should be a close fitted single colour garment, fully sleeved, usually made from wool with a linen lining. Your doublet should be designed with point holes at the bottom (or within the lining) to enable you to point your hose. Doublets may be laced, tied or buttoned up the front and (if required) the lower forearms. 

Velvet doublets are mentioned as high status alternative to wool. Ie. 'This Owen Tudor was father unto he Earl of Pembroke and had wedded Queen Katherine, King Harry VI’s mother, weening and trusting that he should not be headed till he saw the axe and block, and when he was in his doublet he trusted on pardon and grace till the collar of his red velvet doublet was ripped off'.  (Gregory’s Chronicle in the historical collections of a citizen of London in the 15th  Century. Camden Society 1876)

The relationship between doublet and hose can be clearly seen on Memling’s depiction fo the beheading of John The Baptist.

4. HOSE

Your hose should be wool, cut on the bias in a single colour, joined legs, usually footed or worn with stirrups to prevent riding up. To be pointed to your doublet. Can be lined with linen at the top. Worn skin tight.

Parti-colour hose seem to have been a fad of the 13th and early 14th  Centuries. The latest offering showing parti-colour hose I can find, is from 1445 (The Hours of Etienne Chevalier) and even this is worn only by St. Apolline’s torturers in a scene full of nightmare characters.

Single leg hose is acceptable under armour. ‘How a man shall be armed at his ease when he shall fight on foot' 'Also, a payre hosyn of stamyn sengill and a payre of shorte bulwerkis of thynne blanket to put about the kneys.'

Modern day lycra, cotton mixes etc. are not acceptable. Wool only.

5. SHOES 

All medieval shoes and boots were made inside out and turned after construction (hence ‘turn shoes’.) Therefore no stitching should shown on the outside of your shoes or boots (unless on the pointed toes of Krakow style court shoes).  Medieval shoes had flat soles with no heels. Only vegetable tanned leather should be used.

Information gleaned from various sources but most notably Museum of London and Bruges Archaeological Museum .

6. GOWNS AND COATS

Gowns it appears were worn by the majority  of men over their doublet when not manually working (or practicing martial arts in the case of the gentry).  As our period covers a time span of over thirty years, many styles and lengths came in and out of fashion.  However, as a basic guide long (to the ground) and short (to the groin) gowns seem to have been worn by men of substance (nobles, gentlemen merchants etc.) where as knee/midi gowns were worn universally. No buttons are visible on any style of gown.

Sumptary Regulations of 1463 dictate that shorter clothes were not to be worn by men of lesser rank than gentlemen. The punishment for such an offence was a fine of £1.00. Long ground length gowns were prohibitive by material cost. Men of substance however, were in some instances quite happy to pay the fine (sometimes in advance!) in order to dress as they pleased. In the same act as revised in 1464, the toe length of shoes  men wore was regulated and a papal dictate of 1468 restricted the le ngth to 2 inches. However, Gregory’s Chronicle records: 'said they would wear long pikes whether the pope will or nill', a direct pointer that those able to pay the fines were prepared to pay the fine.

(A) LONG GOWNS - Always cut very full, sometimes with slits up the sides for riding, sometimes with slashed sleeves to show off the expensive lining and doublet underneath. Sometimes worn loose, sometimes pleated and belted. They were usually good quality wool with an expensive dye and lining. They aren’t usually depicted with a fur trim (unlike shorter gowns).

Altar piece showing Sir John Donne and family by Hans Memling 1477, Warin and Edward IV, British Library 1471.

Livres des Tournois du Roi Rene - circa 1460

B) MIDI GOWNS / COATS - Cut either full (higher status)  or sparingly (lower status).  Styles as with long gowns (higher status) more plain colours with un-bleached or white linen lining for lower status.

Street Scene  MS 5062 fol 14. 9v Bibliotheque de l'Arsenal Paris - late 

Tres Riches Heures du Duc De Berry - farm workers in front of castle MS65 fol.9v Musee Conde, Chantily, before  1446.

(C ) SHORT GOWNS - Always very full and pleated. Worn with  belt over.. Livres des Tournois du Roi Rene - circa 1460.   Sometimes trimmed with fur or a more expensive material. For very high status, can be made from damask.  Panel paintings of Edward IV and Richard III. , but beware of using ‘off the shelf’ brocades as most of the patterns available are 19th Century by famous Victorian designer William Morris.

 

(D) LIVERY COATS - Only worn by high household stewards at court  Beauchamp Pageant, Guilds,  Now known as Livery Companies (ie. The Worshipful Company of Woolmen)  or city levy captains.    Coventry Leet Book.   No pictorial evidence points to these being worn by the lower classes on the battlefield, written evidence suggests that bendys (bends) and badges were the norm.   Whythe Bendys a-bove hyr harnys - Journal of the Costume Society No 37 2003 drawing on York City Records and Coventry Leet book amongst other sources.

7. SUNDRY ITEMS   

Belts - leather maximum  1” (25mm) wide, dyed and decorated (if you wish).

Authentic replica buckles and strap ends.

Purse - worn on belt.

Pilgrim Badge - pewter or lead token worn to denote your pilgrimage (note: try to keep your icon feasible - Joe Bloggs would have been unlikely to have done more than one pilgrimage  in his lifetime and most likely in his country). Livery Badge - lead, pewter, silver or gold badge (depending on status) showing ones affinity. (at the time!)

Livery Collar - high status version of livery badge. There is some debate over what the collar of S.S. signified, both Lancastrian and Yorkist nobles are seen wearing it on tomb effigies, where as I would doubt you would find, for example, John de Vere wearing Sun’s and Roses!

Lord Saye and sele shares his resting place with Elizabeth Twickenham (his wife). He wears the Yorkist Suns and Roses collar while she wears the collar of SS! However, it is possible that the effigies have been put together in error during refurbishment at some point. What is certain though, is that John tiptoft (the Yorkist Chief Constable who was executed by the Lancastrians during the redemption in 1470) is definitely wearing the collar of SS on his tomb in Ely Cathedral.

Dagger - Bollock dagger or Rondel can be worn on the belt. Rondels are higher status.

Rings - authentic replica (or original!) rings may be worn. Modern day wedding rings do not need to be taken off. All other forms of body jewellery  must be removed if it shows. 

Prince Albert was born in the 19th Century !