John Nesfield's Retinue Kit Guide - Introduction

If you are new to 15th Century reenactment or contemplate joining a reenactment group you will need to spend some time, thought and a good deal of money on acquiring your clothing and accessories.  All reenactment groups have their own kit standards, so it is important to be sure that you want to join a particular group before obtaining anything.  What follows is a brief introduction to the dress requirements of John Nesfield's Retinue. 

Before purchasing or making any kit, you will need to consider the role you wish to play e.g. – a person of low status, an artisan, a civilian or military role.  As mentioned, you will have much more freedom in how you behave and what activities you can participate in if you portray a person of low status.

Please follow the links below for a comprehensively researched guide to late 15th Century clothing.  Look at the kit gallery for pictorial references.  A study of 15th Century art works will supply you with many more ideas. Although English source material is frustratingly scarce, a study of French, Flemish and Burgundian works will provide a good basis for English fashions.

Do not fall into the trap of copying other reenactor’s clothing, but research from sources contemporary to our period (late Fifteenth Century).  John Nesfield’s Retinue take pride in our high standards of authenticity – but we don’t always get it right first time and strive for continual improvement!  

Before allowing new members to participate in events, we must see and approve your clothing and equipment, to ensure it is both appropriate and safe. On each morning of an event a ‘head count’ is carried out for each participating group.  You must present for this in authentic dress, in order to participate in the day’s activities.

If you do not yet have fifteenth century clothing, and want to see whether John Nesfield's Retinue is for you, please feel free to come along to an event as a spectator, and see what we do.

As a minimum starter kit you would need:

Ladies:
  • A smock (sometimes called a shift or chemise) made from white or undyed linen (should not have drawstrings at collar or cuffs)
  • A kirtle (made of wool) with short or long sleeves.  If sleeves are short, longer over-sleeves may be pinned on.
  • A narrow belt made from vegetable tanned leather
  • Black wool half hose, made of bias cut fabric, supported below the knee by garters.
  • Shoes or boots, turnsole, made of vegetable tanned leather.
  • Linen head covering to enclose all hair

    • Ladies smock or shift     Front lacing kirtle showing short and long sleeve     Kirtle back view

    (Click on the thumbnail for a larger version)

Gentlemen:
  • Shirt made of white or undyed linen.  No collar or cuffs, no drawstrings.
  • Woollen joined leg hose, all one colour, with a stirrup or full foot.
  • Braies or breeches, (long underpants) made of linen.  Although not normally visible it is a good idea to have these because hose have a tendency to split at the most inopportune moments!
  • Woollen doublet, all one colour, closed and fastened to hose by linen points with brass ends.
  • Boots or shoes, turnsole, made of vegetable tanned leather.
  • Hat (not coif).

    • Braies     Shirt     Doublet and hose showing holes for pointing     Doublet and hose - back view

    (Click on the thumbnail for a larger version)  

Military* (men only):
  • Helmet or sallet
  • Padded jack – white or undyed
  • Gloves
  • Weapons – consult a group member before buying

    • *You will only need military equipment if you wish to participate in battle.

    General:

It is nice to have a drinking vessel, plate, spoon and eating knife of your own, although group members have these to lend for your first few events.  You will find it useful to have a wooden stool or bench to sit on.  A modern deckchair is acceptable during the evenings only.

If making your own clothing, some patterns are available at the reenactor’s markets, or you can make your own from from the instructions in “The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant” by Sara Thursfield ISBN 0 903585 32 4.  This book is a useful source even if not making your own, as it gives detailed information on suitable materials and construction methods, as well as carefully researched information on suitable styles.  It covers the period 1200-1500, so you will see what is too early for our period as well as what is correct.

Purchase generous amounts of fabric – skirts should be very full.  Generally only wool is used for outer garments with white or undyed linen for linings and undergarments.  Higher social classes may wear velvets and brocades.  Hats may be of wool, felt or knitted and fulled. We can recommend the following suppliers:

Good luck in your research and shopping. Remember you need to concentrate on the basics listed above before anything else.  Please talk to experienced members before committing to expensive purchases - we are always happy to help.  Good kit need not cost any more than bad kit, and will not have to be replaced.  Don't expect getting your kit sorted out to happen overnight.  Having items made up can take time and effort.  As you will see fifteenth century clothing can be very closely fitted - this makes it difficult to buy 'off the peg'.  

There will always be something more to acquire. Once you have committed to re-enactment you will never again wonder what to ask for for Christmas or Birthdays!

Enjoy the kit guides and please contact us if you have any queries.

Once you are a member you can register on the Livery and Maintenance website, where the members information section contains a comprehensive guide to late fifteenth century dress and other equipment you may need.  

Anachronisms:

You may be the owner of the finest museum quality kit in the world; it will all be in vain if modern day items are visible on yourself or a member of the group next to you, modern day anachronisms include;

  • Watches-Take them off
  • Glasses-Wear contact lenses or replace with replica 15th century glasses.
  • Jewellery-Apart from wedding bands or replica 15th century jewellery, take it off or cover it up.
  • Piercings-Not authentic to 15th century northern Europe, remove if visible.
  • Hair Colour-If not a natural colour wear your hat at all times and tuck hair in.
  • Leather-Chrome tanned (shiney) leather is not correct.
  • Cigarettes, Tins, Coke, Ice Cream etc-should be smoked/eaten in ‘out’ areas or the privacy of a closed tent only, all plastic should be out of sight.
  • Try to check that fabric colour & furs are contemporary to our period
  • Mobile phones - switch off or put on silent, keep hidden.
  • Cameras - if you wish to take photographs you must change into modern clothing whilst using the camera.

    • This list is not exclusive, use of common sense during opening hours is recommended.

Click here for John Nesfield's Retinue Ladies kit guide

Click here for John Nesfield's Retinue Mens kit guide

Click here for Gallery of pictorial references