Ladies Late 15th Century Kit Guide

By Martyn Smith  (Copyright 2005)

Hats

Unlike men, women of all social groups should always have their heads covered in public. 

It was just not acceptable for a woman to uncover her head in public. When Richard III chose to publicly humiliate his brother’s ex-mistress Elizabeth (Jane) Shore for her association with Lord Hastings, she was made to walk through the crowded streets of London bare foot and bare headed in her kirtle carrying a lighted taper.  Thomas Moore, The History of Richard III

a) Lower Classes

A linen head scarf with all hair tucked under will suffice.

b) Middle Class/Upper Class

Hats of various heights, styles and colours are well documented in our period. Select the hat of your choice, from a late 15th century manuscript and get a copy made up. Alternatively, a well made linen Henin, with a leather or buckram insert, held in place with replica 15th century pins would be entirely suitable. 

For an indication of diversity of styles, see the lady spectators in ‘Traittie de la forme et devis comme on fait les tournois’ 1460-1465 (Rene of Anjou’s books of tournaments). Also paintings by Memling are good reference points.

Underwear

a) A plain white linen shift should be worn without drawstring collar or cuff. 

Coloured shifts appear to be depicted in the occasional Flemish painting, but very, very rarely. Drawstrings are not shown in any depiction known to me.  For basic overall styling ‘The Company of St .George’ website is helpful-but I have not checked their references.  

b) Black wool demi-hose should be worn (like socks) held up below the knee with garters. 

For a clear indication that woman wore demi-hose, see British Library manuscript 20,698 f.17 (two ladies gardening). Also they seem to have been imported in huge quantities e.g. Public Records Office Sandwich Customs Accounts 1465 ‘knyyt hosen’ 

Shoes

Same construction and rules as with men’s shoes. Modest pikes can be worn.

There are two pairs of piked court shoes in St Albans museum. They are far too small to be men’s shoes. As the sumptuary laws did not apply to women, (but they did to male children), I have concluded that these are most likely women’s shoes. It must be stressed though, that the pikes on these shoes are only about 4” long

Kirtle

A woollen kirtle is worn alone when working or about the house, but more commonly as an undergarment for a gown. Kirtles are most usually wool, lined with linen and laced at the front (or less commonly) up the sides. It is also common for the lower arms to be laced up the fore-arm. The kirtle can have arms that are attached with pins just above the elbow. Kirtles should be at least ankle bone length with a full skirt, where as the body and sleeves should be a tight fit. The neck line is always above the cleavage.

There is no evidence to support the case for linen only kirtles. Household accounts point firmly to wool. Cotton was not imported in any great quantity & was very, very costly

The works of Hans Memling show all manners of styles of kirtle and how they were worn alone and with gowns. For a plain, simple, red kirtle, see the detail on Reliekschrijn Van De H.Ursula (painted before 21st October 1489); or detail from Massacre of the Innocents, Hugo van der Goes, c. 1470

Do not mistake an illustration of a gown and kirtle combination for a low cut kirtle with an ‘insert’- ‘Historie de Troie by Jaquie de Lesplue 1469 in collection Bodmer MS 160 f 225 for example.

Gowns

All classes of woman would own at least one gown of some kind. As with men’s gowns, the variety of styles is constantly changing throughout our period. As your gown is likely to be the most expensive garment in your wardrobe, be sure to copy a reliable source to avoid costly mistakes.

The weather in the 14th and 15th centuries was cooler than today. You would not get far without an overcoat! Wills of the period, show that gowns of quite considerable value were left to friends, relations and servants. Joan Alford widow of Peter for example, left to Margaret her servant, “My blacke gowne that I sytt on the parlour, furred.” (The Alford’s were London Mercers) Another merchant’s wife, Elizabeth Kirkby, left seven gowns of different quality to her sisters and nieces.

a) Lower Classes

would have a woollen gown, perhaps lined or trimmed with a cheap fur, functional more than decorative.

 Leprous beggar woman MS Landsdowne 451 fol 123r

b) Upper Classes

Gowns could be cut in many different styles.   Fabric is usually wool trimmed with fur or velvet, bit can be in very high circles; silks brocade, silks velvet, cloth of gold. The gown is held in place by the girdle. When outside in cold weather, a cape with a hood (tippet) was worn with the gown for warmth around the shoulders. 

 For pictorial evidence, look at all the Flemish primitives (Van Eyck, Memling, Van Der Weyden etc) or again, Rene of Anjou’s tournament books are most helpful. 

A fantastic collection of 15th century girdles are on display at the V+A. Girdles are used silk with silver or gilded clasps and can be highly decorated. It is very much open to debate whether leather girdles were used.

British Library MS 20,698 (again).